Lesson FAQ / Policies

I teach out of my home in Eugene, OR. I can also come to your house – I charge an extra $5 per lesson for traveling within the Eugene/Springfield area. Contact me about travel expenses if you live farther out.

While I do play pedal harp, my speciality is lever harp (also known as Celtic harp or folk harp). If you want to study pedal harp I can put you in contact with someone who specializes in that instrument. Of course, if you like my teaching style I would be happy to work with you!

Regular, short practice sessions are much more valuable than infrequent marathons. When you’re first learning, you’ll get a lot out of practicing for 10 minutes every day. Your practice sessions will get longer as your skill grows and you have more material to work on.

You are welcome to sit in on the first lesson if you’d like. If you do so, you need to be a silent observer (as this is your child’s lesson, not yours).

If you’d like to learn the harp yourself, you might be interested in Parent/Child lessons.

1. Renting a harp will be cheaper (in the short term) than buying harp you’re not happy with in the long run.
2. It’s better to know how to play at least a little before you shop for a harp so that you can choose your instrument based on how it feels and sounds when you play it.

1. Get a floor harp

   I highly recommend starting out with a harp that sits on the floor or a low stool rather than on your lap (a floor harp rather than a lap harp). One of the most important skills to learn in playing an instrument is how to relax; Worrying about your harp falling off your lap doesn’t particularly help with that.

   Note: This is mostly about the harp’s size relative to you. The “floor harp” I played when I was 5 is a lap harp for me now.

2. Play it first

   It’s a good idea even if you’re renting, but certainly if you’re buying a harp: Play on the exact harp you’re considering, not just the same maker, style, or model but the harp you’re looking at. Play on it yourself.

   Play high, middle, and low, loud and soft. Play any extended techniques you know (harmonics, p.d.l.t, percussion, etc.). Test the sharpening levers for their action (how well they move), timber change (the difference in sound between engaged and disengaged), and regulation (the accuracy of the half-step).

   Every harp should come with a tuning key and hopefully a case. It’s also nice if an extra set of strings is included. Since harp sizes and shapes are not standardized, neither are harp strings – every model of harp will have its own string set.

3. Other things you should have:

   • a music stand
   • wire cutters (or scisors if your harp has no metal strings). You’ll need a pair of these to replace strings.

   Recommendations: (not requirements)

   • Its nice to have an extra tuning key in case you misplace one.
   • An extra set of strings on hand means you don’t have to wait for shipping when a string breaks.
   • I recommend against electronic tuners. Get a tuning fork instead (A-440).
   • If want to jump into the deep end you can get a set of regulation tools to adjust your sharpening levers. Some harp makers sell these.

• Ask me if I have any harps to rent at the moment.
• Visit the Buy & Sell Center in Eugene which usually has a couple harps (note: unless it’s what you’re looking for specifically, make sure you’re not getting a Paraguayan harp (which has the blue and red strings reversed) or a wire-strung harp (which demands a very different style of playing).
• Visit Thormahlen Harps, harp makers in Corvallis. Call ahead and get the whole tour. (Say hello to Dave and Sharon from me!)
• Make use of Craigslist or your favorite search engine. The type of harp I primarily play and teach might be called a Celtic harp, lever harp, or folk harp. The instrument called a concert harp, pedal harp, or orchestral harp is an entirely different animal.

You might be able to get them through the folks you bought or rented your harp from, or from the harp maker. You can also get them from Robinson’s Harp Shop who makes strings. This is particularly useful if you have a harp whose maker you can’t identify. Call them up and they can design a string set for you or find one on file if you can identify your harp. This is where I get my strings.

• You don’t want your harp to live right next to a big window where it gets tons of direct sunlight. A place with steadier temperature is better.
• Put your harp in it’s case before you put it in your car. It’s both for padding and insulation.
• Never leave your harp in your vehicle. It can get very hot or cold and be damaged.